Delhi, Day 2: Humayun’s Tomb and More Adventures

On my second day in Delhi, I visited my favorite site to date: Humayun’s Tomb. I arrived at around 9:30 AM, early enough to beat the worst of the heat, and was greeted with the jaw-droppingly stunning predecessor of the Taj Mahal. Humayun’s Tomb was built by the wife and son of Humayun, the second Mughal emperor, from 1569-1570 AD. It is the first garden-tomb on the south Asian subcontinent, and also the first to use red sandstone on such a large scale. In addition, Humayun’s Tomb shows the growing influence of Persian architecture in the Mughal Dynasty and marked the start of this influence in royal mausoleums. I am a novice in architectural studies (unlike my friend I’ve been sight-seeing with, who is an architecture PhD and a total boss at analyzing this stuff), but from what I understand, the domes and arches used in tombs such as Humayun’s Tomb and the Taj Mahal have Persian influence. The Mughals, like the Persian Safavids, also practiced Islam (although the Mughals practiced Sunni Islam, and the Safavids, Shia Islam). (The Mughals and Safavids, along with the Ottomans, are considered to be the three greatest Middle Eastern/Central Asian Empires around 1500-1600 AD, also dubbed by some scholars as the “gunpowder empires” due to their successful use of newly developed firearms, although this concept has been criticized as too simplistic.)

The breathtaking Humayun’s Tomb

Humayun’s Tomb actually contains hundreds of royal tombs in the grand mausoluem. The tomb of Humayun himself, of course, is by itself in a central room, raised above the rest on a small platform. (By the way, if you ever visit, be forewarned that you are NOT allowed to step up onto the platform!) This is a ceremonial tomb, though – his real tomb is far below in an underground chamber, apparently accessible through a side chamber but closed to most of the visiting public. The position of Humayun’s tomb is deliberate – his body is aligned on a North-South axis, while his head has been turned to face Mecca. I visited Humayun’s Tomb with my family 12 years ago (and can’t believe I didn’t remember how stunning it was!), but there have been additional excavations and restorations since then. The most notable is the mausoleum of Isa Khan Kiyazi, an Afghan noble in the court of the Suri Dynasty (dynasty that fought against the Mughals) that was constructed several decades before Humayun’s tomb.

Isa Khan’s tomb

Humayun’s tomb complex was added to the UNESCO World Heritage site list in 1993. After visiting, I could appreciate the origins of the word “paradise” better – apparently the English world is derived from the Farsi term for “walled garden.” After Humayun’s tomb, I visited Purana Qila, one of the oldest forts in Delhi that is believed to have been built by Sher Shah Suri (of the Suri Dynasty) and by Humayun. Unfortunately there was not much information inside on the actual history of the fort, but Humayun did die here. In the center of the complex was a building in which Humayun could relax and repose. Within walking distance was a mosque Humayun used personally (architecturally the most beautiful part of the complex, in my opinion). He was getting old, and when he heard the call to prayer one day, in his rush he fell down the stairs, and died from injuries 3 days later. The majority of people hanging out in the complex were not very interested in this history, though – they were mostly couples canoodling on the grass!

Close-up details at the Purana Qila mosque

One frustrating but understandable aspect of the tourist sites is how expensive they are for foreigners; tickets for foreigners are usually well over 10 times pricier than the same ticket for locals. Most “tickets” are reusable tokens – this is the same for one-time use metro tickets. When I had to relieve myself, I also discovered that public toilets here are quite comparable to those in China. They have what I affectionately dub “squatty potties” here as well – porcelain bowls set in the ground rather than raised, so that you squat over them rather than sit on them. If you travel to India, I’d also advise you to bring your own tissue, as not all places provide them.

After Purana Qila, I decided to visit Connaught Place (CP), a sprawling area of stores and businesses considered the commercial heart of Delhi. The original horseshoe-shaped structure with white buildings was built by the British, who believed that the horseshoe shape would be “lucky” for both shopkeepers and shoppers. At the time it was built, in the late 19th century, it was the largest market of its kind in India. I naturally stopped at a Starbucks there. A man associated with a group of autorickshaws convinced me to pay 50 rupees (less than 1 USD) for an autoricksaw to take me to Starbucks, then a nearby marketplace (my friend and I were speculating and determined that the drivers must have bargains with shopkeepers to bring tourists to them in exchange for a cut of the profit or something), then to an amazing South Indian vegetarian restaurant chain called Saravana Bhavan recommended to me by a friend. Of course, the “market” turned out to be an upscale store with multiple sections that was obviously geared towards foreigners, but I only bought 1 shirt for around 900 rupees (a little less than $15 USD) – a little expensive, but very cute, and I was very proud at my persistence in refusing to buy more stuff!

My delicious lunch at Saravana Bhavan 

Introduction to Delhi

I have been in Delhi, India for almost 4 days now. Forewarning – I will make multiple comparisons to China in this post, as that is my point of comparison when it comes to large Asian countries. Having lived in China for multiple years, I thought I would be completely prepared for Delhi, particularly since I was here with my family 12 years ago. However, that has not been entirely true. Twelve years ago, I stayed in a 5-star hotel and my family had a private driver. This time around, I’m in a 3-star hotel and taking auto-rickshaws, Ubers, and the metro around, which has made it a very different experience. I really appreciate my experience 12 years ago, but traveling here as a graduate student on a limited budget and experiencing more common modes of transportation has been rewarding as well.

My new mode of travel: auto-rickshaw!

So let’s talk about how I wasn’t prepared for Delhi. First of all, THE HEAT!!! My conference here happens to be at the hottest time of year, right before the monsoon season starts. Daily temperatures range from a low in the low 80s to a high of 90-something to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but the real killer is the humidity. Every time I step outside I seem to immediately start dripping sweat. Secondly, how many people asked me for pictures – it seemed to be even more intense at tourist sites here than in China. Thirdly, how aggressive vendors and auto-rickshaw drivers are – I felt this was particularly the case for me as a foreign woman traveling by myself. Fourthly, on a positive note, I have been taken aback by how STUNNING the architecture and historical sites here are (see my next post). The women in particular are also very stunning in their brightly-colored saris and scarves. I remember when I was here briefly with my family 12 years ago, my then-10-year-old sister commented to our mom, “Mommy, the women here all look like princesses!”

I arrived at my hotel late Saturday evening, and decided after a late start the following morning to go to the National Museum and see the India Gate. Instead of taking a taxi, I decided to brave the metro. It is fairly well-organized and easy to navigate. What I like the best about it is that there is an entirely separate car for women! And this is taken very seriously – when I was on the metro the following day and two young men accidentally got into the car, a young lady soundly told them off for being in the “wrong car.” Almost immediately after stepping out of my hotel and walking to the metro, I was accosted by a middle-aged man who wanted to “be friends” and exchange numbers. I refused, saying that I “didn’t exchange numbers with strangers” (largely true, especially concerning strange men of any race in any country). Speaking of the metro – let me advise that the terms “metro” and “subway” mean quite different things in India – whereas the metro is the underground train system, a “subway” refers to an underground pedestrian path going under the road.

Sign for the women’s only metro car

When I exited the metro, a young man named Ajay started chatting with me, but he only wanted to practice his English (not take photos with me or exchange contact information), so I let him tag along with me to the National Museum. Ajay is from Southern India, and his native language is Telugu, which is one of 6 languages that the central government has designated as a “classical language of India.” He told me that he is studying English for an exam he needs to take to enter the Indian military. The National Museum was really interesting – mostly ancient art, from as far back as the 9th century AD! What stuck out to me most was an intricately inlaid ivory shrine from the 18th-19th century (I tried not to think about all the poor elephants); an entire section of a TEMPLE that had been transported to the museum; and a 12th century Chola Dynasty dancing figure of Nataraja, the Lord of Dance (the 5 poses represent the 5 essential acts of the Lord Shiva – creation, preservation, destruction, veiling, and grace); and the jewelry exhibit. Nataraja is dancing on top of the demon of ignorance, the dwarf Muyalaka. Also, the jewelry exhibit was fantastic. Talk about BLING – I was particularly impressed by the size of some of the nose rings and a necklace that covered literally the entire neck. In addition, there was a Buddhist relic given as a gift from the Thai government to the Indian government, and there was a group of 3 Chinese Buddhists chanting and prostrating in front of it.

Nataraja, the Lord of Dance

Some serious bling. The piece in the bottom center is a necklace. 

As a historian of modern East Asia, I was most interested in a temporary exhibit on the Indian Navy, which featured the historical development of Indian naval power from the Zamorin period in southern India to the British East India Company (under which India was colonized) to the Indian Navy after independence in 1947. I took this opportunity to ask my friend, Ajay, what Indians thought of the British now. “Well,” he said, “we think that India would be much more developed now if it hadn’t been for the British.” From the little that I’ve studied modern Indian history, I see his point. Especially after the  Industrial Revolution in the early 19th century, the British focused on promoting Indian agriculture and production of raw materials, which would then be transported back to the UK for further processing. Simultaneously, the British discouraged the opening of factories in India in order to have less competition with British industrial development.

After resting in the museum (I was jet-lagged and exhausted!), I braved the heat once again. Almost immediately after stepping out of the museum, I was accosted by a group of Indian men who all wanted pictures with me. If my husband had been with me, I’m pretty sure they would not have been so aggressive. They asked me for a picture, but then one by one proceeded to put their arm around either my waist or shoulders without my permission. As a woman traveling by myself I was galled. My next stop was the India Gate, where unfortunately more of the same happened. I don’t mind taking pictures with people if they ask politely, but if they don’t ask my permission it is very rude. If families and women with cute little children ask for pictures though, I will happily let them and ask for one myself! The men are normally most aggressive (I found that this was the case in China as well), and I felt particularly vulnerable as a woman traveling by myself.

Posing with a very nice Indian couple at the India Gate.

The India Gate itself is architecturally imposing and worth visiting for sure. It was built by the British as a war memorial to the 82,000 Indian soldiers who fought in the First World War and in the Anglo-Afghan War for Great Britain. My first thought on seeing it was that it looked like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, which is also a war memorial (to those who died in the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars). In addition to the towering Memorial Archway, there is a smaller structure underneath containing the Flame of the Immortal Soldier (India’s version of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier). It was added in 1972 after the Bangladesh Liberation war, which is known in India as the Indo-Pak War (before 1972, Bangladesh was a part of Pakistan).

Close-up of the India Gate

Last random observation – the public park exercise machines here are almost EXACTLY the same as those in China – I definitely would not have expected that!