I have been in Delhi, India for almost 4 days now. Forewarning – I will make multiple comparisons to China in this post, as that is my point of comparison when it comes to large Asian countries. Having lived in China for multiple years, I thought I would be completely prepared for Delhi, particularly since I was here with my family 12 years ago. However, that has not been entirely true. Twelve years ago, I stayed in a 5-star hotel and my family had a private driver. This time around, I’m in a 3-star hotel and taking auto-rickshaws, Ubers, and the metro around, which has made it a very different experience. I really appreciate my experience 12 years ago, but traveling here as a graduate student on a limited budget and experiencing more common modes of transportation has been rewarding as well.
So let’s talk about how I wasn’t prepared for Delhi. First of all, THE HEAT!!! My conference here happens to be at the hottest time of year, right before the monsoon season starts. Daily temperatures range from a low in the low 80s to a high of 90-something to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but the real killer is the humidity. Every time I step outside I seem to immediately start dripping sweat. Secondly, how many people asked me for pictures – it seemed to be even more intense at tourist sites here than in China. Thirdly, how aggressive vendors and auto-rickshaw drivers are – I felt this was particularly the case for me as a foreign woman traveling by myself. Fourthly, on a positive note, I have been taken aback by how STUNNING the architecture and historical sites here are (see my next post). The women in particular are also very stunning in their brightly-colored saris and scarves. I remember when I was here briefly with my family 12 years ago, my then-10-year-old sister commented to our mom, “Mommy, the women here all look like princesses!”
I arrived at my hotel late Saturday evening, and decided after a late start the following morning to go to the National Museum and see the India Gate. Instead of taking a taxi, I decided to brave the metro. It is fairly well-organized and easy to navigate. What I like the best about it is that there is an entirely separate car for women! And this is taken very seriously – when I was on the metro the following day and two young men accidentally got into the car, a young lady soundly told them off for being in the “wrong car.” Almost immediately after stepping out of my hotel and walking to the metro, I was accosted by a middle-aged man who wanted to “be friends” and exchange numbers. I refused, saying that I “didn’t exchange numbers with strangers” (largely true, especially concerning strange men of any race in any country). Speaking of the metro – let me advise that the terms “metro” and “subway” mean quite different things in India – whereas the metro is the underground train system, a “subway” refers to an underground pedestrian path going under the road.
When I exited the metro, a young man named Ajay started chatting with me, but he only wanted to practice his English (not take photos with me or exchange contact information), so I let him tag along with me to the National Museum. Ajay is from Southern India, and his native language is Telugu, which is one of 6 languages that the central government has designated as a “classical language of India.” He told me that he is studying English for an exam he needs to take to enter the Indian military. The National Museum was really interesting – mostly ancient art, from as far back as the 9th century AD! What stuck out to me most was an intricately inlaid ivory shrine from the 18th-19th century (I tried not to think about all the poor elephants); an entire section of a TEMPLE that had been transported to the museum; and a 12th century Chola Dynasty dancing figure of Nataraja, the Lord of Dance (the 5 poses represent the 5 essential acts of the Lord Shiva – creation, preservation, destruction, veiling, and grace); and the jewelry exhibit. Nataraja is dancing on top of the demon of ignorance, the dwarf Muyalaka. Also, the jewelry exhibit was fantastic. Talk about BLING – I was particularly impressed by the size of some of the nose rings and a necklace that covered literally the entire neck. In addition, there was a Buddhist relic given as a gift from the Thai government to the Indian government, and there was a group of 3 Chinese Buddhists chanting and prostrating in front of it.
As a historian of modern East Asia, I was most interested in a temporary exhibit on the Indian Navy, which featured the historical development of Indian naval power from the Zamorin period in southern India to the British East India Company (under which India was colonized) to the Indian Navy after independence in 1947. I took this opportunity to ask my friend, Ajay, what Indians thought of the British now. “Well,” he said, “we think that India would be much more developed now if it hadn’t been for the British.” From the little that I’ve studied modern Indian history, I see his point. Especially after the Industrial Revolution in the early 19th century, the British focused on promoting Indian agriculture and production of raw materials, which would then be transported back to the UK for further processing. Simultaneously, the British discouraged the opening of factories in India in order to have less competition with British industrial development.
After resting in the museum (I was jet-lagged and exhausted!), I braved the heat once again. Almost immediately after stepping out of the museum, I was accosted by a group of Indian men who all wanted pictures with me. If my husband had been with me, I’m pretty sure they would not have been so aggressive. They asked me for a picture, but then one by one proceeded to put their arm around either my waist or shoulders without my permission. As a woman traveling by myself I was galled. My next stop was the India Gate, where unfortunately more of the same happened. I don’t mind taking pictures with people if they ask politely, but if they don’t ask my permission it is very rude. If families and women with cute little children ask for pictures though, I will happily let them and ask for one myself! The men are normally most aggressive (I found that this was the case in China as well), and I felt particularly vulnerable as a woman traveling by myself.
The India Gate itself is architecturally imposing and worth visiting for sure. It was built by the British as a war memorial to the 82,000 Indian soldiers who fought in the First World War and in the Anglo-Afghan War for Great Britain. My first thought on seeing it was that it looked like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, which is also a war memorial (to those who died in the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars). In addition to the towering Memorial Archway, there is a smaller structure underneath containing the Flame of the Immortal Soldier (India’s version of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier). It was added in 1972 after the Bangladesh Liberation war, which is known in India as the Indo-Pak War (before 1972, Bangladesh was a part of Pakistan).
Last random observation – the public park exercise machines here are almost EXACTLY the same as those in China – I definitely would not have expected that!
My Eclectic Musings 